With What Shall I Build It? - The Only 3 Materials You Really Need for Chicken Runs and Coops
1.
Wood - If I were telling you this in conversation instead of writing it, I'd probably repeat that a dozen times over.
Wood is your best choice, by far.
It can be used for siding, doors, and shingles, amongst other things.
It is strong, durable, weather-resistant, and built to last.
Wood is the most traditional of all the other choices, for those very reasons.
Solid wood is your absolute best choice, though it can also be the most expensive.
Pressed wood, while more economical, is not as strong or durable, and may off-gas the chemicals and glue used to hold the wood pieces together (if that is a concern for you).
To have your cake while eating it too, try to get a deal on the wood you use to build your chicken runs and coops: 1) re-purpose some wood you already have lying around, 2) see if you can get a good price on reclaimed wood or up-cycled wood (from Craigslist or Freecycle, for example), or 3) if you live near a lumber mill, see if you can buy your wood directly from them at a wholesale price.
2) Wire mesh - For those of you who are planning to build a run or tractor for your chickens, you will need good, strong fencing.
Your fencing needs to hold your chickens in, while keeping predators out.
This means that it must have small enough holes so that smaller predators like rats and raccoons will also be deterred.
Since there are so many options available, let me narrow down your "wire mesh" options even further for you: DO NOT use chicken wire.
I know it has the name "chicken" in it, but don't let your real chickens come anywhere near the stuff.
Chicken wire is cheap so it is a tempting option.
However, it is also thin, flimsy, prone to rusting, and no match for a determined raccoon.
If you can, choose stronger fencing.
If chicken wire really is your only option, use it for a daytime fence only and lock your chickens up securely at night.
Chain link fence is strong and sturdy, but it has larger openings that will let smaller predators like rats, skunks, and weasels in, easily.
Not to mention, a raccoon can reach in and grab a chicken with little problem, as well.
It is not the best choice.
The absolute best fencing choice for your chicken runs and coops is 1/2" heavy gauge galvanized hardware cloth.
It is extremely strong, sturdy, and is coated with zinc to make it resistant to rust.
Although there are different sizes of galvanized hardware cloth available, the 1/2" size is small enough to resist smaller predators yet large enough to keep it from becoming brittle.
One quick tip on installing your fencing: be sure to bury the fencing about a foot deep to deter digging predators.
3) Dirt - Yep.
The plain, brown stuff that is already in your yards is the best flooring choice possible for your chicken runs and coops (unless, of course your coops are elevated).
It keeps your chickens cool, makes for great dust baths for your birds, and is FREE.
If you want to keep from having to clean up the chicken poop or shovel in extra dirt occasionally (after the chickens have dug too many dust bath holes), then you can use the deep litter method and lay down several inches of pine shavings with a little straw on top.
Using the deep litter method right over your dirt floor is both economical and extremely low-maintenance.
Wood - If I were telling you this in conversation instead of writing it, I'd probably repeat that a dozen times over.
Wood is your best choice, by far.
It can be used for siding, doors, and shingles, amongst other things.
It is strong, durable, weather-resistant, and built to last.
Wood is the most traditional of all the other choices, for those very reasons.
Solid wood is your absolute best choice, though it can also be the most expensive.
Pressed wood, while more economical, is not as strong or durable, and may off-gas the chemicals and glue used to hold the wood pieces together (if that is a concern for you).
To have your cake while eating it too, try to get a deal on the wood you use to build your chicken runs and coops: 1) re-purpose some wood you already have lying around, 2) see if you can get a good price on reclaimed wood or up-cycled wood (from Craigslist or Freecycle, for example), or 3) if you live near a lumber mill, see if you can buy your wood directly from them at a wholesale price.
2) Wire mesh - For those of you who are planning to build a run or tractor for your chickens, you will need good, strong fencing.
Your fencing needs to hold your chickens in, while keeping predators out.
This means that it must have small enough holes so that smaller predators like rats and raccoons will also be deterred.
Since there are so many options available, let me narrow down your "wire mesh" options even further for you: DO NOT use chicken wire.
I know it has the name "chicken" in it, but don't let your real chickens come anywhere near the stuff.
Chicken wire is cheap so it is a tempting option.
However, it is also thin, flimsy, prone to rusting, and no match for a determined raccoon.
If you can, choose stronger fencing.
If chicken wire really is your only option, use it for a daytime fence only and lock your chickens up securely at night.
Chain link fence is strong and sturdy, but it has larger openings that will let smaller predators like rats, skunks, and weasels in, easily.
Not to mention, a raccoon can reach in and grab a chicken with little problem, as well.
It is not the best choice.
The absolute best fencing choice for your chicken runs and coops is 1/2" heavy gauge galvanized hardware cloth.
It is extremely strong, sturdy, and is coated with zinc to make it resistant to rust.
Although there are different sizes of galvanized hardware cloth available, the 1/2" size is small enough to resist smaller predators yet large enough to keep it from becoming brittle.
One quick tip on installing your fencing: be sure to bury the fencing about a foot deep to deter digging predators.
3) Dirt - Yep.
The plain, brown stuff that is already in your yards is the best flooring choice possible for your chicken runs and coops (unless, of course your coops are elevated).
It keeps your chickens cool, makes for great dust baths for your birds, and is FREE.
If you want to keep from having to clean up the chicken poop or shovel in extra dirt occasionally (after the chickens have dug too many dust bath holes), then you can use the deep litter method and lay down several inches of pine shavings with a little straw on top.
Using the deep litter method right over your dirt floor is both economical and extremely low-maintenance.