Toluca de Lerdo is the capital of Mexico State. It is located about 40 miles west of Mexico City, and can be reached from the center of Mexico City in about an hour's drive, although traffic can cause delays. It is the fifth largest city in Mexico and has around 900,000 inhabitants. The city is highly industrialized and prosperous. At almost 9000 feet above sea level, it is among the highest major cities in the world.

 Because of its altitude, Toluca can get quite chilly at night throughout the year.

Toluca's airport, the Licenciado Adolfo López Mateos International Airport (TLC) is a major airport, and has been used as an alternative to Mexico City's Benito Juarez airport. 

History

In ancient times the valley of Toluca was home to four linguistic groups. The name Toluca comes from Nahuatl (the language spoken by the Aztecs); they called this area "Tolocan," which means place of the god Tolo. During the Postclassic period a large city called Calixtlahuaca, located just north of where Toluca is now, ruled the area until it was conquered by the Aztecs in 1478. 

After the arrival of the Spaniards, the valley of Toluca was granted to Hernan Cortes by the Crown. Toluca wasn't recognized as a city until 1677. During the war of independence a massacre took place in which a group of loyalists killed many indigenous people. The main square is called "Plaza de los Mártires" (Plaza of the Martyrs) in remembrance of those who were killed.

 In 1861 the city added de Lerdo to its name in honor of president Sebastián Lerdo de Tejada. In 1830 the city was named capital of the State of Mexico.

What To Do

See the Cosmovitral (pictured). This prominent Toluca landmark is located in the center of town at the corner of Juárez and Lerdo de Tejada streets. The iron structure was built in the early 20th century to house Toluca's main market, however, today it is home to a botanical garden that contains over 400 species of plants.  The beautiful stained glass designs that decorate it are a later addition; they were created by local artist Leopoldo Flores beginning in 1975. The theme of the extensive stained glass mural is "Man and his relationship with the Universe." 

Shop for handicrafts at CASART (Casa de Artesanias). This government-run store features a wide variety of handicrafts from the area, including wooden items, rugs, pottery and weavings. Located at Paseo Tollocan No. 700 Oriente, Colonia Izcalli.

Explore archaeological sites. There are two ancient sites near Toluca: Calixtlahuaca, which is located about six miles northeast of the city, and Teotenango, about a thirty minute drive from the city in the town of Tenango del Valle.

Visit museums. Toluca is home to a large number of museums, including the Museo de Bellas Artes, which is housed in a restored 17th century convent, and contains paintings by Cristobal de Villalpando, Jose Juarez, and Miguel Cabrera, among others.

Hike a volcano. The nearby Nevado de Toluca is a dormant volcano that, at 15,390 feet, is Mexico's fourth highest peak. If you're not a mountaineer, you'll be glad to know there's a road that leads up to the level of the crater where you can see two picturesque lakes, Lago de la Luna and Lago del Sol. 

Enjoy local specialties. Toluca is known for its chorizo, the spicy sausage that originated in Spain and contains pork, chili, tomatoes, garlic, green onions, herbs, and cumin. You'll find both red and green chorizo - the green owes its color to the herbs and spices used in its preparation. A popular way to enjoy chorizo is in a "pambazo," which is a sandwich that is similar to a torta, but the bun is dipped into a sauce made with guajillo chiles, and then it is stuffed with a mixture of potatoes and chorizo, and garnished with lettuce, cream, and fresh cheese.

Where To Stay

I spent a night at the Hotel Colonial in Toluca and found it to be basic but comfortable. It's centrally located. The building is lovely and the lobby is impressive with high ceilings, but the rooms could use some updating. If you need an economical place to stay, it's not a bad choice.

Other accommodation options include the Hotel Quinta del Rey, which is more upscale. If you're looking for a hotel near the airport, look into either the Courtyard Toluca Airport or One Toluca Aeropuerto.