The Celebrated Curry Bunny Chow
Most cities have local or regional culinary icons. Think Paris and think crêpe suzettes and soufflés; in London it's roast beef, New York has the cheeseburger and Glasgow the knuckle sandwich. When deciding what and where to eat in Durban, the celebrated curry bunny chow should be counted.
At its most basic a 'bunny' – as it is affectionately known – is a half-loaf of bread hollowed out and filled with delectable, juicy curry: muttton, beaf, chicken or bean.
The origin of the name, however, is lost in the mists of curry Shangri-la.
First Class Bunnies
Today it's the culinary icon of the 'curry coast' of KwaZulu-Natal and in places has been raised to gourmet status (as far away as Cape Town). You find many of the best bunny chows in the cheaper places, which is also where you'll find the most authentic Indian curries.
Bunnies became popular during the apartheid era when so-called non-white customers were not allowed (and few could afford) to sit down in 'whites only' restaurants. It was a cheap and cheerful take-away belly filler. They were brought to the so-called white community by surfers looking for a quick and filling meal after a radical wave session.
Where to Hunt for the Best Bunnies
Local surf fundi * John McCarthy (of The Bomb surfing web site) says his three favourite places to catch a bunny are:
Vrushiks next door to the North Beach Spar supermarketin Somtseu Road on the beach-front, best vegetarian currie in the world!
Sunrise Chip’n Ranch (known to locals as Johnny Rotis) in Sparks Road, Overport, which gives the biggest portions and best value, hotter that the fires of hell.
CT Curries in Umkomaas (Durban south) for the best mutton and beef bunny chows in the greater Durban area.
The Final Word on Curry Bunnies
These are not upmarket eateries but all offer superb food at very reasonable prices; they are basically take-away joints with a few plastic tables. You just cannot say you've experienced the soul of Durbs unless you've had a real bunny chow. Chow for now, and all.
GLOSSARY
fundi – Swahili (lingua franca of the African east coast) for expert or master-craftsman
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