How to Fit Solid Wooden Floors
BASIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR FITTING SOLID WOOD FLOORING
You have chosen a solid wood floor which we are sure you will enjoy for years to come. Please read these instructions and advice before proceeding with installation or unpacking. Solid wood is a natural product and as such will react to its local environment by expanding and contracting. It is important that some basic rules are followed to ensure a trouble free installation and future enjoyment.
BEFORE INSTALLATION
The following is very important
SUB FLOORS
In most home we now have concrete floors and they should be checked for damp proof courses and also humidity. The surface should be firm, clean, level and grease free. If there is some possibility of dampness then use the Bona R410 to seal the floor. If the concrete floor is uneven by more than 2mm then you can use a self levelling compound but in this case you will not be able to glue the floor down as the glue may cause the levelling compound to break away.
In older houses there is normally and air gap below the joists, in this case either use engineered boards or put a ply subfloor down with a damp proof membrane below to ensure that any humidity and temperature difference will not affect your solid floor once installed.
Where you are fixing to old floor boards you must make sure that they are firmly fixed and that there are no loose boards or protruding nails. It is always safest if you want to lay your new floor over an existing one that you add screws to the old boards as well as nails. If you want to take the old floor boards up then make sure the joists are sound and remove all the nails you can. If the old floorboards are substandard and you want to lay the new boards in the same direction then you should screw down a plywood sub base on which you can then glue down your new floor. This will ensure that you do not get "creaky" boards and your new floor will be completely flat and secure. If you lay your new floor directly onto existing boards in the same direction you are likely to get problems in the future. Normally it is always best to lay the boards lengthways in a room and not across the shortest space.
INSTALLATION
There are two main methods to fixing your floor described below. Before starting your installation you should open several packs so that you can mix the packs to get the best layout. Random lengths mean that you will get a total range of different lengths in each pack, each pack will not always have the same length boards. As solid wood will move the random lengths mean that you will have less of a problem with twisting and warping.
Wood is a natural product and nature always surprises us so you will get different colour hues and grain variation even from the same tree. Each board and each floor is unique and it is important that you get the layout correct so that you can enjoy your floor for years to come and regard it as a piece of beauty and art. With solid wood you must always leave an expansion gap around side of each room of at least 10mm to 15mm.
Glueing
We normally recommend the Bona R850 adhesive as it dries like a hard rubber and is easy to use. We supply this at below trade price with a comb to spread the adhesive. When you use this method you glue the boards directly on to your old floorboards, concrete floor or plywood subfloor. Please follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully which you will find on each tub of adhesive.
Nailing or Screwing
This is the traditional method and all boards should be secret nailed or screwed at an angle of 45% through the top of the tongue. Our comprehensive traditional installation guide shows this in diagrammatic form. You should us the lost nail heads and a pneumatic nail gun preset to the correct angle which you can hire from any good tool shop. For some very hard species you may need to use a small drill to make a guide hole so that you do not split the tongue when nailing through.
Floating Floors
You should not try and float a solid wood floor the natural movement of solid wood means that you may have problems in the future.
AFTER INSTALLATION WOOD CARE
Lacquered Flooring: we supply a maintenance kit for our aluminium oxide UV coated floors. Normally a quick hoover or dry dust mop will do the job, for stubborn stains just use a kitchen wipe or our special cleaners and replenishing solution.
UV Oiled Floors: these also require little maintenance as they have been sealed and heat treated at the factory. There is a special UV oil maintenance kit and also soap oil which can be used every few months depending on the level of traffic to keep the floor looking like new.
Natural Oiled Floors: we only supply one board that has natural oil and these need to be maintained regularly, the new soap oil and maintenance kits are the perfect solution.
NEVER USE AGRESSIVE CLEANING PRODUCTS CONTAINING AMMONIA, BLEACH OR SILICONES, AND NEVER LEAVE SURPLUS WATER ON THE FLOOR.
REMEMBER: Wood is a beautiful natural product and due to this the industry standard states that up to 5% may not be usable for the intended purpose.
You have chosen a solid wood floor which we are sure you will enjoy for years to come. Please read these instructions and advice before proceeding with installation or unpacking. Solid wood is a natural product and as such will react to its local environment by expanding and contracting. It is important that some basic rules are followed to ensure a trouble free installation and future enjoyment.
BEFORE INSTALLATION
- Make sure that the cartons are stacked horizontally and flat. Open the ends so that the wood can acclimatise. All our boards are kiln dried to 8.5% moisture content and they need to acclimatise to your local environment in the rooms where they will be installed. You should allow at least 10 to 14 days for the boards to acclimatise making sure that you have a room temperature of about 18 degrees C with humidity no more than about 55%. Do not lay solid boards in basements for example, or over garages or open spaces such as open ground below the joists. In winter when the temperature is very low and the air is very dry you should use a humidifier if possible especially if the room is heated to a fairly high temperature.
The following is very important
- All wet trades such as plastering and wallpapering must be finished
- All the plaster must be totally dry
- Floor and wall tiles have been installed for at least 2 weeks
- Radiators have been bled with any leaks rectified
- The concrete sub floor has a moisture content of less than 10%
- All windows and doors are fully fixed
- All painting is completed
- All other trades have finished
SUB FLOORS
In most home we now have concrete floors and they should be checked for damp proof courses and also humidity. The surface should be firm, clean, level and grease free. If there is some possibility of dampness then use the Bona R410 to seal the floor. If the concrete floor is uneven by more than 2mm then you can use a self levelling compound but in this case you will not be able to glue the floor down as the glue may cause the levelling compound to break away.
In older houses there is normally and air gap below the joists, in this case either use engineered boards or put a ply subfloor down with a damp proof membrane below to ensure that any humidity and temperature difference will not affect your solid floor once installed.
Where you are fixing to old floor boards you must make sure that they are firmly fixed and that there are no loose boards or protruding nails. It is always safest if you want to lay your new floor over an existing one that you add screws to the old boards as well as nails. If you want to take the old floor boards up then make sure the joists are sound and remove all the nails you can. If the old floorboards are substandard and you want to lay the new boards in the same direction then you should screw down a plywood sub base on which you can then glue down your new floor. This will ensure that you do not get "creaky" boards and your new floor will be completely flat and secure. If you lay your new floor directly onto existing boards in the same direction you are likely to get problems in the future. Normally it is always best to lay the boards lengthways in a room and not across the shortest space.
INSTALLATION
There are two main methods to fixing your floor described below. Before starting your installation you should open several packs so that you can mix the packs to get the best layout. Random lengths mean that you will get a total range of different lengths in each pack, each pack will not always have the same length boards. As solid wood will move the random lengths mean that you will have less of a problem with twisting and warping.
Wood is a natural product and nature always surprises us so you will get different colour hues and grain variation even from the same tree. Each board and each floor is unique and it is important that you get the layout correct so that you can enjoy your floor for years to come and regard it as a piece of beauty and art. With solid wood you must always leave an expansion gap around side of each room of at least 10mm to 15mm.
Glueing
We normally recommend the Bona R850 adhesive as it dries like a hard rubber and is easy to use. We supply this at below trade price with a comb to spread the adhesive. When you use this method you glue the boards directly on to your old floorboards, concrete floor or plywood subfloor. Please follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully which you will find on each tub of adhesive.
Nailing or Screwing
This is the traditional method and all boards should be secret nailed or screwed at an angle of 45% through the top of the tongue. Our comprehensive traditional installation guide shows this in diagrammatic form. You should us the lost nail heads and a pneumatic nail gun preset to the correct angle which you can hire from any good tool shop. For some very hard species you may need to use a small drill to make a guide hole so that you do not split the tongue when nailing through.
Floating Floors
You should not try and float a solid wood floor the natural movement of solid wood means that you may have problems in the future.
AFTER INSTALLATION WOOD CARE
Lacquered Flooring: we supply a maintenance kit for our aluminium oxide UV coated floors. Normally a quick hoover or dry dust mop will do the job, for stubborn stains just use a kitchen wipe or our special cleaners and replenishing solution.
UV Oiled Floors: these also require little maintenance as they have been sealed and heat treated at the factory. There is a special UV oil maintenance kit and also soap oil which can be used every few months depending on the level of traffic to keep the floor looking like new.
Natural Oiled Floors: we only supply one board that has natural oil and these need to be maintained regularly, the new soap oil and maintenance kits are the perfect solution.
NEVER USE AGRESSIVE CLEANING PRODUCTS CONTAINING AMMONIA, BLEACH OR SILICONES, AND NEVER LEAVE SURPLUS WATER ON THE FLOOR.
- Always protect chair and furniture legs with felt pads
- Place mats at entrances to absorb grit and dirt from outside
- Clean with the proper maintenance kits or just wipe with a damp sponge
REMEMBER: Wood is a beautiful natural product and due to this the industry standard states that up to 5% may not be usable for the intended purpose.
