Modern-day Mexico is a result of a blend of cultures and indigenous traditions are still very strong, particularly in a few areas, and the highland mountains of Chiapas state is one of them. The church in the small town of San Juan Chamula makes this very evident. Here Catholic and indigenous traditions are completely intertwined.

Chiapas is among the Mexican states with the highest indigenous population.

San Juan Chamula is a village of about 60,000 inhabitants in the mountains near San Cristobal de las Casas, at 2260 m elevation. The people in this village are Tzotzil Maya, and that is the first language of the inhabitants, though most also speak Spanish, though some speak Spanish with a strong accent. The people of San Juan Chamula dress in a traditional way: the men wear black or white wool tunics called chujes that are belted around the waist. The women dress in embroidered huipiles (blouses) made of cotton or satin. They wear a long black linen skirt and a shawl.

Read more about the Maya, from ancient times to the present day.

Inside the Church:

The church is considered a Catholic church, but is unlike any other. It contains no pews. Statues of saints line the interior walls and the bare tile floor is covered with pine needles, which brings a strong natural element to the interior of the church. The officiants are called curanderos (healers). According to our local Tzotzil guide, it is considered offensive to call them shamans.

The local people go to the curanderos for help with health and other problems. The curandero will ask them to bring herbs, candles and one or multiple chickens to sacrifice during the ceremony he will perform. 

The ceremonies generally consist of people kneeling on the floor and chanting, with lit candles. Ceremony participants may consume pox (pronounces poe-sh), a locally produced liquor, and soft drinks, most notably Coca Cola, but other sodas are also consumed. Eggs and chicken bones may also play a role, besides the chickens that are sacrificed in the church and may be later cooked and consumed, or buried outside a sick person's home.

Symbolism in the Church:

The number three is a very important number, and not just for the reasons it is important in Christianity. The village is divided into three barrios or neighborhoods: San Juan, San Pedro and San Sebastian, and the festivities of each of these saints is celebrated. The three arches at the top of the church, and the bells inside them represent the three districts.

Time here is kept in the traditional way: they do not observe Daylight Saving Time. There is a sun dial in the church yard, but of course it only works when the sun is shining, and this area tends to be cloudy or even foggy, so the sound of the church bells ring three times a day: at 5 am, noon, and 6 pm. 

Further reading: What is syncretism?

If you go:

Many tour companies in San Cristobal offer tours to the nearby indigenous villages, usually including San Juan Chamula and San Lorenzo Zinacantán.

You can also hire a taxi to take you to the village, it is only about 6 miles from San Cristobal. There is a fee to enter the church.

It is strictly prohibited to take photos within the church. To do so would be highly disrespectful and could get you in trouble with the local authorities. I was even asked to put away my notebook and pen inside the church.

Most of the local Mayan indigenous people do not like to have their photo taken, though some will agree to have their photo taken in exchange for a tip.

If you go on your own, hire a local guide from the community to give you a tour. There is often one offering tours near the cross outside the church. 

Also read: Must- Visit Mayan Archaeological Sites in Chiapas