Attaching the Seat

• 1). Mark two spots at least 4 inches below the gunwale (the top edges of the sides of the canoe) at the point where you want to mount the seat. If you want to make the seat a bit lower, just lower all the marks evenly. Make the marks 7 inches apart. Drill screw sized holes at the marks. Make identical marks on the opposite side of the canoe at the same height and position and drill holes large enough for your screws to pass through.
  
  
• 2). Cut the dowels to the measured width of the canoe from the marked hole on one side to its matching hole on the opposite side. Don't make the dowels long enough to push the hull outward or so short it pulls it inward when you screw it tight. Predrill the ends and screw the dowels in place with 4-inch round head sheet metal screws. Fill the holes with epoxy before you screw the dowels in place. Apply butyl sealant outside the hull where the screws will pass through. When finished the dowels will stretch parallel to each other across the width of the canoe and 7 inches apart center to center. The seat will sit on top of the dowels.
  
  
• 3). Rout the top edges of the 18-by-10 inch half inch marine plywood piece that will become the seat. This rounds the edges so they don't cut into your legs when you sit on the seat. Cut two 1-by-1-inch wood strips 18 inches long and glue in place along the bottom of the seat on the long sides.
  
  
• 4). Screw the 1-by-1 strips to the front and back of the 18-inch sides underneath the seat after the glue sets. Once the seat assembly is complete, rout the lower edges of the strips with the router to round them and prevent chafing when sitting in the kneeling position.
  
  
• 5). Set the seat on top of the dowels so the wood strips are on the bottom and overlap the dowels. Drill pilot holes through the seat into the dowels and screw the seat to the dowels.
  
  
• 6). Sand, stain and varnish the dowels and the seat and you're done.