Installing Fly Screens - Builders Tips
Making and fixing fly screens Fly screens are an easy and very satisfying fix-it job, especially if you have a lot of openings around your home.
Most timber window frames will have a small rebate in the moulding to allow for the installation of screens.
If not, you can install the screens flat against the outer surface of the frame.
If you have sliding, sash or inward-opening windows you'll find the rebate for screens on the outside.
If your windows open outwards, however, like casement or awning windows, the screens will have to be fitted on the inside.
Inside screens will present you with the added complication of having to add mechanical winders to open the windows without removing the screens.
For sliding aluminium windows, screens are fitted into an outer track.
WHAT YOU NEED Tape measure - Aluminium fly screen frame - Corner connectors, four per screen (plus screws to fasten these) - Fibreglass screen mesh (the most common, but there are other kinds) a toggle clips (to hold screen in frame) - Plastic fly screen - Hacksaw - Utility knife - Cordless drill Grab a tape measure and make a careful note of the space between the inside edges of the rebates, then allow a couple of millimetres clearance all round to determine your screen size.
If the screens are to fit into aluminium tracks, the vertical measurement starts on the upper inside surface of the top track but stops on the top edge of the lower track.
Subtract a further 3 mm from this measurement for tolerance and you'll have a screen size that that can be fitted by lifting it into the top track and pushing it past the edge of the lower track before dropping it into place.
Once you've measured all your windows, make up a quick diagram of each of the screens to be made before heading down to your hardware store for the supplies.
- Set up a sturdy, flat work surface and then measure, mark and mitre cut the aluminium frame stock to size, with the aid of the hacksaw and mitre box.
Small mitre boxes specifically for this job are available for a few dollars and can be found in the same area of the hardware store as the rest of the fly screen materials.
Assemble the fly screen frame using the corner joiners.
Use a piece of wood or a mallet to gently tap corners into position.
When assembled, test on the window to ensure correct size.
If the window or your handiwork is slightly out of square, a gentle push on the corner of your frame will adjust it.
Place the frame on a flat surface with the channel side up.
Use the floor if your bench isn't big enough to ensure the frame i supported all the way around.
Cut a piece of fibreglass mesh with a 50 mm over-hang on each side.
Place this piece over the frame and then diagonally cut the corners of the piece of mesh.
Cut a length of fly screen spline slightly longer than required.
The ridges on the fly screen spline are designed to catch and pull the mesh into the channel.
Before starting to insert the spline it can be soaked in a dish of hot water to make it more pliable.
Start about 100 mm from one corner and push the spline in with your finger initially, and then follow through with the spline roller; this will force the spline and mesh deep into the groove.
Continue this all the way round the frame, Keep a little bit of tension on the screen but not much as you work around with the spline roller the screen will become taut.
Trim off any excess mesh with a sharp blade.
The screens can be held in place with the aid of four (two each side) small plastic toggle clips.
These are secured to the surrounding window-frame with a single screw each to allow them to pivot back and forth to release the screen for future cleaning and maintenance.
Most timber window frames will have a small rebate in the moulding to allow for the installation of screens.
If not, you can install the screens flat against the outer surface of the frame.
If you have sliding, sash or inward-opening windows you'll find the rebate for screens on the outside.
If your windows open outwards, however, like casement or awning windows, the screens will have to be fitted on the inside.
Inside screens will present you with the added complication of having to add mechanical winders to open the windows without removing the screens.
For sliding aluminium windows, screens are fitted into an outer track.
WHAT YOU NEED Tape measure - Aluminium fly screen frame - Corner connectors, four per screen (plus screws to fasten these) - Fibreglass screen mesh (the most common, but there are other kinds) a toggle clips (to hold screen in frame) - Plastic fly screen - Hacksaw - Utility knife - Cordless drill Grab a tape measure and make a careful note of the space between the inside edges of the rebates, then allow a couple of millimetres clearance all round to determine your screen size.
If the screens are to fit into aluminium tracks, the vertical measurement starts on the upper inside surface of the top track but stops on the top edge of the lower track.
Subtract a further 3 mm from this measurement for tolerance and you'll have a screen size that that can be fitted by lifting it into the top track and pushing it past the edge of the lower track before dropping it into place.
Once you've measured all your windows, make up a quick diagram of each of the screens to be made before heading down to your hardware store for the supplies.
- Set up a sturdy, flat work surface and then measure, mark and mitre cut the aluminium frame stock to size, with the aid of the hacksaw and mitre box.
Small mitre boxes specifically for this job are available for a few dollars and can be found in the same area of the hardware store as the rest of the fly screen materials.
Assemble the fly screen frame using the corner joiners.
Use a piece of wood or a mallet to gently tap corners into position.
When assembled, test on the window to ensure correct size.
If the window or your handiwork is slightly out of square, a gentle push on the corner of your frame will adjust it.
Place the frame on a flat surface with the channel side up.
Use the floor if your bench isn't big enough to ensure the frame i supported all the way around.
Cut a piece of fibreglass mesh with a 50 mm over-hang on each side.
Place this piece over the frame and then diagonally cut the corners of the piece of mesh.
Cut a length of fly screen spline slightly longer than required.
The ridges on the fly screen spline are designed to catch and pull the mesh into the channel.
Before starting to insert the spline it can be soaked in a dish of hot water to make it more pliable.
Start about 100 mm from one corner and push the spline in with your finger initially, and then follow through with the spline roller; this will force the spline and mesh deep into the groove.
Continue this all the way round the frame, Keep a little bit of tension on the screen but not much as you work around with the spline roller the screen will become taut.
Trim off any excess mesh with a sharp blade.
The screens can be held in place with the aid of four (two each side) small plastic toggle clips.
These are secured to the surrounding window-frame with a single screw each to allow them to pivot back and forth to release the screen for future cleaning and maintenance.
