Home & Garden Architecture

How to Build Your Own Faux Fireplace

    • 1). Do preliminary research on fireplace types and designs. The size and shape of the fireplace is fundamental and should reflect a specific look that will work with your room design.

    • 2). Take preliminary measurements of the eventual fireplace location in the room. Measure the maximum width of the fireplace and the maximum height.

    • 3). Draft accurate, to-scale plans for your fireplace, showing all views and measurements. Break the project into three distinct sections: a base, an inner "fire box" that defines the area where the wood burns, and an outer "shell" of walls that enclose the fire box and defines the fireplace as a whole.

    • 4). Build the base for the fireplace using 2-inch by 2-inch dimensional framing lumber to form the "skeleton" of a box for the base. Reinforce the middle section of the box frame with wooden joists, installed on 12-inch to 16-inch centers, depending on the width of your base.

      Cover this skeleton with a "skin" of ¾-inch thick plywood panels. Finish the base with plywood on the top, the front side and the two end sides: the back and bottom of the base can remain uncovered since they will usually rest against the room wall and the floor.

      This base should reflect the total width and depth of the overall fireplace design, plus any extra front or side "aprons" for a raised hearth that may protrude out from the fireplace proper.

    • 5). Construct the interior firebox using 2-inch by 2-inch framing. Cover the frame with ½-inch thick plywood panels. Leave the bottom and the front of the box open, without plywood coverings. The two end sides, the back and the top of the firebox should be "skinned" with plywood. Install the paneling "skin" on the inside of the framing, not the outside. The framing should not be visible to the viewer when seen head-on.

      The firebox rests on top of the base, centered on the base, and spaced away from the back edge of the base by 3 to 6 inches. It should be wide enough to accommodate real wooden logs 18 to 24 inches in length. The firebox should be at least 12 to16 inches narrower than the overall width of the fireplace: allow 6 to 8 inches on both sides of the firebox to suggest thick 6-inch to 8-inch "sides" of the fireplace. The firebox should be deep enough to accommodate three or four logs, stacked side to side. The firebox front opening should be 24 inches to 36 inches high.

      This firebox will eventually be surrounded by the main fireplace "walls" with the front opening of the firebox flush with the a corresponding opening on the front wall panel. Attach the firebox to the base with nails or screws so it cannot shift position on the base.

    • 6). Build the main fireplace walls. Make three separate sections: a front section and two end side sections. Frame these wall sections with 2-inch by 2-inch lumber and "skin" them with ¾-inch thick plywood panels. Leave an opening in the front wall to accommodate the front of the firebox. Create a separate "top" panel if the fireplace is not ceiling height. If your fireplace walls are very tall, reinforce them with lumber "stretchers" mounted horizontally within the frame.

    • 7). Locate the front wall of the fireplace on the base. Make sure the front wall lines up with the front opening on the firebox. Have assistants hold this wall in place.

    • 8). Place an end panel at right angles to the front wall panel and screw or nail the side panel and the front panel together at the joint. Repeat with the other end panel. The three-sided construction should stand up on its own now.

    • 9). Adjust the three-sided walls on the base so they are centered and aligned with the firebox correctly. Attach the walls to the base with screws and angle irons or cleats. Anchor the fireplace walls to the back wall of the room and to the ceiling if the fireplace is that tall. The fireplace should be absolutely rigid and unable to tip forward or shift on the base. Note: Attaching the fireplace walls to the back wall and ceiling can be deceptively tricky, so think this approach through carefully before permanently joining the three wall panels together.

    • 10

      Paint the firebox interior black or, better yet, line it with beige faux "fire box bricks." "Stain" any firebricks with thinned black paint to suggest exposure to years of smoke. Paint the inside top of the firebox black if it is visible when you stand or sit near the fireplace.

    • 11

      Cover the fireplace walls and any hearth space with faux bricks, marble, tiles, stones or fine wood panels. The more realistic your materials are, the more convincing the fireplace will be.

    • 12

      Attach any mantel to the fireplace. Anchor it well if it is to be "weight bearing."

    • 13

      Add firebox andirons and logs, or electric fireplace log units, inside the firebox. If you will be using an electric log set, be sure to drill a hole through the back of the firebox to accommodate a wire and plug.

    • 14

      Dress the fireplace "scene" with accessories such as real glass doors, fire screens, fire tending tools, kindling, matches and logs.

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