How to Conceal Basement Ductwork
- 1). Run a length of 2-by-4 on either side of the ductwork along the entire length of the ducts. If the ducts are right up against the wall, you only need to have a 2-by-4 on the side of the duct that is further from the wall.
- 2). Attach the wood to the ceiling or joists above the ductwork with a power drill and screws to create the ceiling strips. Drive a screw into the wood every 16 inches along the length.
- 3). Measure with a measuring tape from the left side of the left ceiling strip to the right side of the right ceiling strip. If you only have one ceiling strip, measure from the wall to the outside of the strip.
- 4). Add 2 inches to the measurement you took for each ceiling strip you are using. So if you have two ceiling strips that are 36 inches apart, add 4 inches to get a measurement of 40 inches.
- 5). Cut 2-by-4s to the measurement you have calculated to make the bottom of the soffit ribs. You will need one rib for every 16 inches of the ceiling strips.
- 6). Calculate the length of the rib sides by measuring down from the ceiling to the lowest part of the ductwork. Add 2 inches to the length to accommodate the bottom of the ribs.
- 7). Make the sides of the ribs according to the side measurement you calculated. You will need two sidepieces per rib if you are using two ceiling strips, but only one side per rib if there is one ceiling strip.
- 8). Build one rib by screwing one or two sidepieces onto a bottom piece in the correct formation. For one ceiling strip, you will need to form an L shape. If you are using two strips, you will need to make a U with a flat bottom.
- 9). Slip the rib in place around the ceiling strip or against the wall to make sure it fits. If the rib doesn't touch the ceiling or has any other problems fitting, correct the problems before assembling the rest of the ribs.
- 10
Put together the rest of the ribs in the same way, checking each one after assembly for fit. Attach the completed ribs to the ceiling strips or strip and wall with more screws at 16-inch intervals. - 11
Angle the ends of the drywall pieces with a miter saw. Make 45-degree cuts to ensure the side and bottom meet cleanly. You only need to miter the ends of the pieces that meet at the corner between the sides and bottom of the frame. - 12
Hold the drywall against the soffit frame and match up the mitered edges to create the covering. If the drywall doesn't fit cleanly on the frame, trim it down until it covers the frame completely. - 13
Attach the drywall to the frame with screws every 12 inches along the height. The screws should go through the drywall into the frame ribs behind it. - 14
Dilute and mix the drywall mud with water until it is smooth and spreadable like icing. - 15
Spread the mud onto the seams and screw heads using a broad knife, pressing the mud in as you go. The seams are any places where one piece of drywall meets another. - 16
Apply paper tape over mud on the seams and use a small blade to cut the tape to length. Squeeze out excess mud with a squeegee and wipe it away. - 17
Spread a second coat of mud over the tape's seams and apply another layer of tape. When the mud and tape dry, sand the areas down to remove any roughness. - 18
Apply a third coat of mud on the seams and top it with tape. Sand down the third dry layer as well as the mud on the screw heads to level the drywall.
