Getting Your Ride Ready for the Road After Winter Storage
For all you riders like me that live in cold-weather areas, the time has come to think about getting ready to hit the road (and none too soon).
If bike has spent the winter in storage there are some points to consider before you venture out.
A little time and effort now can save you agonizing time and money when it counts.
Below are just a few recommendations; please check your owner's manual for a complete checklist for service.
Engine: A little engine oil in the spark plug holes and a couple of revolutions of the engine with the plugs removed will help lube the upper cylinders and protect the cylinder walls and rings when you fire the beast up.
When you pull the plugs, be sure to clean them and check the gap.
Also check and clean the air filter at this time.
Valves: Your manual probably says to adjust them with a cold engine so now is as good a time as any.
Also give the cam lobes a shot of oil to get a little lube on the upper end before you start it.
Also take the time to check the torque on the cylinder head bolts (also best when done at cold temps).
Oil: If you changed the oil and filter before you stored it, it is probably ready to ride.
The oil may be contaminated by water, which will give it a milky appearance when it is first run if you find this change it even if you did prior to storage.
If you didn't change oil and filter before storage, replace it now.
If you don't, contaminants when added to even a minimal amount of water is corrosion waiting to attack your engine.
It is also a good Idea to replace the drain plug gasket and remember to properly torque the drain plug.
Transmission and Primary: Unless you did it before storage, replace the fluids now.
If you changed the fluid prior to storage check it, if it appears milky change it.
If you don't, contaminants added to even a minimal amount of water is corrosion waiting to attack these components.
It is also a good Idea to replace the drain plug gasket and remember to properly torque the drain plug.
Fuel: If you left your tank full the fuel may have separated and layered, unless you used a fuel stabilizer.
Before opening your petcock and letting fuel into the carburetor, disconnect the fuel line and drain the tank completely and discard or use it for burning yard waste this spring.
Now is also a good time to clean or change your fuel filter and look inside the tank for rust.
If you didn't drain your carburetor float bowls before storage, remove them and inspect.
If the inside has something that looks varnished you may end up with clogged jets.
Thoroughly clean the carb bowls and jets or have a cycle shop do it for you.
Brakes: Replace your brake fluid- especially if you haven't done it in a year or two.
There is nothing good at all that can come from water and other contaminates in your brake lines.
Also check the pads or shoes if they are even close to thin, get new ones.
Brakes are not the place to skimp.
Suspension and Steering: Follow your owner's manual to properly check and adjust your steering head bearing.
Replace your fork oil and look for signs of fork seal leakage.
If it is leaking even the slightest bit take care of it now.
Add grease to all grease zerks, your owners manual should have a complete list of grease points.
Battery: If you had your battery on a Battery Tender or a regular trickle charger, then it's is probably all set.
If it was neglected all winter, check the fluid level, slow charge it and load test it.
If it comes out looking questionable, replace it before it causes problems.
Also be sure to check that the vent tube is connected and properly routed...
Paint and Chrome: Now is the time to take things apart and thoroughly wax everything you can get to.
Remove any corrosion, and put on a nice thick layer of wax or other favorite protectant to preserve it during the riding season.
Also clean and apply protectant to all leather items such as seats and saddle bags.
Pre-Ride: Before riding, you should also look over all the normal pre-ride stuff: tire pressure and tread depth, wheel true, spoke tension, wheel bearing condition, lubrication and adjustment, control function, lights, sprocket and drive belt or chain condition/lubrication.
Look for leaks anywhere there is fluid.
Check the tightness of all the fastener you can reach.
Pay close attention to things like: brake/clutch lever bolts, axle nuts, drain plugs, etc.
Refer to your owner's manual for a complete checklist of points to check before riding.
Tools: Be sure to check or make up a toolkit for your bike to make minor repairs if necessary.
Also include a little duct tape, baling wire etc.
You may also want to make up a first-aid kit (band-aids, insect sting medication, burn cream, sunscreen and other minor first aid items).
Safety: Finally, look out for 4 wheelers especially if you are out early this year.
They are not used to looking for you yet, (not that they do later in the season) but the number of idiots talking, texting and??? is growing by the day.
Also please watch for sand, gravel salt and other icy road fighting materials that were put out for the season, especially in rural areas and at intersections.
If bike has spent the winter in storage there are some points to consider before you venture out.
A little time and effort now can save you agonizing time and money when it counts.
Below are just a few recommendations; please check your owner's manual for a complete checklist for service.
Engine: A little engine oil in the spark plug holes and a couple of revolutions of the engine with the plugs removed will help lube the upper cylinders and protect the cylinder walls and rings when you fire the beast up.
When you pull the plugs, be sure to clean them and check the gap.
Also check and clean the air filter at this time.
Valves: Your manual probably says to adjust them with a cold engine so now is as good a time as any.
Also give the cam lobes a shot of oil to get a little lube on the upper end before you start it.
Also take the time to check the torque on the cylinder head bolts (also best when done at cold temps).
Oil: If you changed the oil and filter before you stored it, it is probably ready to ride.
The oil may be contaminated by water, which will give it a milky appearance when it is first run if you find this change it even if you did prior to storage.
If you didn't change oil and filter before storage, replace it now.
If you don't, contaminants when added to even a minimal amount of water is corrosion waiting to attack your engine.
It is also a good Idea to replace the drain plug gasket and remember to properly torque the drain plug.
Transmission and Primary: Unless you did it before storage, replace the fluids now.
If you changed the fluid prior to storage check it, if it appears milky change it.
If you don't, contaminants added to even a minimal amount of water is corrosion waiting to attack these components.
It is also a good Idea to replace the drain plug gasket and remember to properly torque the drain plug.
Fuel: If you left your tank full the fuel may have separated and layered, unless you used a fuel stabilizer.
Before opening your petcock and letting fuel into the carburetor, disconnect the fuel line and drain the tank completely and discard or use it for burning yard waste this spring.
Now is also a good time to clean or change your fuel filter and look inside the tank for rust.
If you didn't drain your carburetor float bowls before storage, remove them and inspect.
If the inside has something that looks varnished you may end up with clogged jets.
Thoroughly clean the carb bowls and jets or have a cycle shop do it for you.
Brakes: Replace your brake fluid- especially if you haven't done it in a year or two.
There is nothing good at all that can come from water and other contaminates in your brake lines.
Also check the pads or shoes if they are even close to thin, get new ones.
Brakes are not the place to skimp.
Suspension and Steering: Follow your owner's manual to properly check and adjust your steering head bearing.
Replace your fork oil and look for signs of fork seal leakage.
If it is leaking even the slightest bit take care of it now.
Add grease to all grease zerks, your owners manual should have a complete list of grease points.
Battery: If you had your battery on a Battery Tender or a regular trickle charger, then it's is probably all set.
If it was neglected all winter, check the fluid level, slow charge it and load test it.
If it comes out looking questionable, replace it before it causes problems.
Also be sure to check that the vent tube is connected and properly routed...
Paint and Chrome: Now is the time to take things apart and thoroughly wax everything you can get to.
Remove any corrosion, and put on a nice thick layer of wax or other favorite protectant to preserve it during the riding season.
Also clean and apply protectant to all leather items such as seats and saddle bags.
Pre-Ride: Before riding, you should also look over all the normal pre-ride stuff: tire pressure and tread depth, wheel true, spoke tension, wheel bearing condition, lubrication and adjustment, control function, lights, sprocket and drive belt or chain condition/lubrication.
Look for leaks anywhere there is fluid.
Check the tightness of all the fastener you can reach.
Pay close attention to things like: brake/clutch lever bolts, axle nuts, drain plugs, etc.
Refer to your owner's manual for a complete checklist of points to check before riding.
Tools: Be sure to check or make up a toolkit for your bike to make minor repairs if necessary.
Also include a little duct tape, baling wire etc.
You may also want to make up a first-aid kit (band-aids, insect sting medication, burn cream, sunscreen and other minor first aid items).
Safety: Finally, look out for 4 wheelers especially if you are out early this year.
They are not used to looking for you yet, (not that they do later in the season) but the number of idiots talking, texting and??? is growing by the day.
Also please watch for sand, gravel salt and other icy road fighting materials that were put out for the season, especially in rural areas and at intersections.
