Fencing

• Some compost bins are open bins. They do not have walls or an external structure. While that works in some areas, animals and other pests are likely to filch items from these open bins. The best option, then, is to build fencing around your compost bins. The easiest type of fencing to use is chicken wire or other heavy-duty mesh. The materials still will be able to aerate, and the fencing is malleable enough that you can climb in and out if needed.
  
  

Under-Layer

• Getting a good under-layer for a compost bin is important so that you do not lose any of the compost materials from seepage into the ground. Leaves work for short-term composting sites. For permanent compost bin locations, however, hay is the best choice for an under-layer. Hay does not break down as easily and forms a nice bed below the composted materials.
  
  

Turning Materials

• Turning the compost bin is one of the more unpleasant chores associated with composting. A pitchfork, or a rake for a very small bin, can help to turn the composting materials. Master composters sometimes use mechanical means to turn materials, however. These methods typically require an enclosed compost bin, but a tumbler or turbine can spin and mix the materials easily without any physical effort on the part of the composter.
  
  

Sifter

• Once you have turned the compost and allowed it to heat, consider sifting before you use the compost. Some materials will turn to compost much faster than others, and if you simply lift a bucket of compost out, you are getting some material that has not yet broken down. Instead, use a sifter made of a mesh with holes about 1/8-inch wide to sort out the good dirt in the compost bin. After sifting, turn the rest and leave it to break down more.